What gardening jobs should you do in November?
November is the month to prepare your garden for winter and set yourself up for a strong spring. In Cambridge, November brings the first hard frosts, heavy leaf fall, and the transition from active growing season to dormancy. The key jobs divide into four categories: lawn care, planting, protection, and tidying. Completing these tasks in November takes a total of 4 to 6 hours for an average Cambridge garden spread over two weekends, or you can hire ELawnCare for a full autumn garden tidy from £250 for a half-day session. The effort you put in now directly reduces the work and cost you face in March and April.
November lawn care: final mow and autumn feed
Give the lawn its final mow of the season if you have not already done so. Set the mower one notch higher than your summer setting, leaving the grass at 30 to 40 millimetres. Collect the clippings rather than mulching. If you have not yet applied an autumn lawn feed, early November is the last opportunity. Choose a product high in potassium and iron but low in nitrogen, such as a dedicated autumn or winter lawn feed. This strengthens the grass against frost and disease without promoting soft growth. Rake out any remaining fallen leaves from the lawn surface. A layer of wet leaves left on grass through winter causes yellowing, moss, and disease. If you noticed moss during the growing season, apply an iron sulphate treatment now. November application kills the moss before winter, and you can scarify it out in early spring.
November planting: bare-root season begins
November marks the start of the bare-root planting season, which runs until March. Bare-root trees, hedging plants, roses, and fruit bushes are significantly cheaper than container-grown equivalents, often 50% to 70% less. This is the cheapest and most effective time to plant new hedging, with bare-root hawthorn, beech, and hornbeam available from as little as £1 to £3 per plant. A new hedge of 50 bare-root hawthorn plants costs around £75 to £150 plus planting labour, compared to £500 or more for container-grown equivalents. Plant bare-root stock as soon as possible after purchase, soaking roots in water for two hours before planting. In Cambridge clay soil, add organic matter to the planting hole and firm in well. November is also the time to plant spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, which need a cold period before flowering. Daffodils and crocus should have been planted in September or October.
Protecting tender plants and garden infrastructure
Move tender potted plants (citrus, olive, pelargonium, fuchsia) into a greenhouse, conservatory, or sheltered spot against a south-facing wall before the first hard frost. Wrap the pots of any plants that must stay outside with bubble wrap or hessian to protect roots from freezing. Drain and store garden hoses to prevent frost damage and splitting. Turn off outdoor taps if you have an isolation valve, or wrap them with insulation. Check fence panels and posts for damage before winter storms arrive. A fence panel that is loose now will blow down in the first gale and cost more to fix as an emergency call-out. ELawnCare fencing repairs start from £100 per panel for labour. Check shed roofs for leaks and clear gutters and downpipes of leaves to prevent blockages that cause overflow and water damage.
Border tidying and composting
Cut back herbaceous perennials that have finished flowering and died back, but leave some seed heads standing for wildlife, particularly birds that feed on them through winter. Divide overgrown perennials like hardy geraniums, hostas, and hemerocallis (day lilies) and replant the divisions to fill gaps or give away to neighbours. Clear annual bedding that has finished and add it to the compost heap. Spread a layer of organic mulch (bark, garden compost, or well-rotted manure) 5 to 8 centimetres deep over bare soil in borders to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect roots from frost. Do not mulch right up to the stems of shrubs and trees as trapped moisture can cause rot. Turn your compost heap to speed decomposition, and consider starting a new heap with the autumn leaf fall. Leaves take 12 to 18 months to decompose into valuable leaf mould.